![]() In these smps the fuse never blows Sometimes the U9102 (optocoupler) and U9103 (TL431) blowns. It is not the best but if you have a short circuit nothing will explode in your face. If you do not have a variAC you can replace the fuse with an incandecent lamp. If everything measures well, replace the PWM controller and damaged components. Then I check R9113 which is the one that connects R9101 and the CS (Current Sense) pin of the pwm controller. First, I check the components connected between the Q9101 gate and the U9101 pwm controller: Check R9109, 9110, 9111 and D9104. If I don't have the right tools and I see that the R9101 has blown, it is certain that Q9101 is short-circuited or leaking. To verify the pwm controller, the correct and safe way is to use an oscilloscope + differential probe and a variAC. The best practice to test diodes and resistors is simply to desolder them. It may be that R9113 is less than 1k because it is soldered. I replace it with "PF6003AG" which has more driver capabilities. Check for a short between Drain and Source, then depending on what you come back with, see what the next steps would be. However, what I am getting at is that you might have failure of the MOSFET even though externally it looks fine. X-ray showed nothing due to internal shielding, the decapping revealed physical damage to the die of the MOSFET and the microsection confirmed failure between the Drain and Source due to an over-voltage event, which is quite interesting as they are rated for 400V and we only use them for 24V switching.that's still being investigated. We had one at work on a new power supply module we have developed for our new product line and due to being a first fail in a new product we went to the extent of x-ray, decapping and microsection. You will not always see external damage to a blown MOSFET. Check them with a multimeter, if they are shorted out, then you have a failed MOSFET. You can see in your picture that the source is the pin closest to the bottom with the letter 'S' next to it and the drain is the middle one with the letter 'D' next to it. ![]() ![]() Next, as mentioned above, when MOSFETs fail, they generally fail short circuit between the source and the drain. Just in case.Sorry if this sounds a bit wishy washy but I hate to suggest to you to spend some hard earned money.First of all 99% of repair shops don't actually repair anything, they just swap entire boards to get things working. I'd purchase from a place that has a no question asked return policy. I am convinced it is the strips (call it a gut feeling) but due to the low voltage I'd opt for a replacement power supply. ![]() The backlight strip may run you a bit more. Not sure where you are located so shipping could be an issue. Your power supply appears to be a 715g7364-p02-001-002M hard to verify on your picture :-) and that would be available at places like this. Now, from what I can tell failed backlight strips are very common for this model. Either the power board (appears to be low voltage since your TV panel would have 3 strips with 7 LED's I would expect the LED voltage to be in the 60V-70V range) or the backlight strips. The part with the question mark is a transformer. Both U8601 as well as C8607 are actually on the bottom side. Update Okay, that would only have been a confirmation of what we are currently expecting. I opened up the back of my television, plugged the power cable in the wall, I did not see any lights shining on the back of my television.ĭoes anyone know which television part is morelikely faulty and should be replaced to get it working? Consejo Póngase en contacto con el servicio de atención al cliente de Philips llamando al 1-86 (modelos adquiridos antes de 2008) o al 1-86 (modelos adquiridos después de 2008) si su mando está. I did the "flashlight test", when I shined through the panel, I saw my menu such as "source" or "television channels". Philips dispone de una línea de atención al cliente a la que puede acceder para sustituir el mando a distancia del televisor. I do hear audio coming out of the television. Philips Ambilights (lights to the side) goes ON when turning television on. I found the service manual (Chassis QM17.4E LA) and some handy Youtube on how to diagnose. I searched up on the internet i.e Google and Youtube. Since I am a little bit handy, I want to try to fix the television. I went back to the store and asked if it was still under warranty. I own a 4 year old Philips 32PFS6402/12 where I suddenly don't see any image (black screen).
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